Editor’s Choice: 3 women-owned unique restaurants in London by founder Lorraine Copes

Lorraine Copes

Three Female-Founded Restaurants Across the Capital

My name is Lorraine Copes, founder and CEO of Be Inclusive Hospitality, a vibrant community hub that supports race equity within the hospitality, food, and drink industry. As a Brummie, what I have always loved most about the London restaurant scene is the ability to eat whatever your heart desires, no matter how ‘niche’ that cuisine might be.

On a sunny summer’s day, I travelled from South East London to North London, visiting three female-founded restaurants, each serving lesser-known cuisines. Each one breathes new life into the vibrant hospitality industry with a love letter to their heritage and culture. During this day, I journeyed from Ethiopia to Malaysia and ended my travels in the Caribbean, experiencing the flavours of both St Lucia and Jamaica.

3 women-owned unique restaurants in London everyone should know about

Beza Ethiopian Vegan Restaurant in Elephant and Castle

Credit: Beza Ethiopian

My first stop was Beza Ethiopian Vegan in the heart of Elephant and Castle, founded by Beza Berhanu, who had previously shared her recipes through street food markets. Upon entering the restaurant, I felt as if I was stepping into her culture, from the wall art, Ethiopian drinks, and vessels of lentils on display – lentils are heavily featured across the menu, seasoned in a variety of ways. Beza was evidently more comfortable behind the scenes and in the kitchen. Still, despite this, she beamed with pride when talking about the representation of vegan Ethiopian food in London, its health benefits, and its growing popularity. Who knew that lentils and vegetables served on Injera could be so tasty?

Sambal Shiok Laksa Bar in Holloway

Credit: Sambal Shiok Laksa Bar

Next on my list was Sambal Shiok, a Laksa Bar on Holloway Road. Greeted by founder and chef Mandy Yin, the former solicitor who found a home in cooking and sharing her culture through food. Mandy was radiating when describing her ‘from scratch’ recipes, the quality of ingredients, and the care and attention put into creating the menu items daily. This care has resulted in local raving fans, and the attention is evident in each and every bite. Similar to Beza, I could feel the transfer of energy and pride when talking about her food, its origins, and how she ended up in hospitality as her second career. Experiencing this standard of food in a neighbourhood restaurant that is both cosy and casual, felt like such a treat, one that I didn’t want to end.

Octaves in Stoke Newington

Credit: Octaves

Last on the list, but certainly not least, was Octaves in Stoke Newington, founded by BBC Radio 1Xtra DJ and broadcaster Sian Anderson. This small plate, all-you-can-eat Caribbean restaurant has been trading for a little under a year, and the cuisine mirrors Sian’s heritage, St. Lucian and Jamaican, and her preferred way of eating – grazing on a range of different types of Caribbean dishes with friends and family. Sian’s journey into hospitality is, again, a unique one, starting during the pandemic with her first cookbook release. Despite a busy schedule, Sian is hands-on in the kitchen and will continue to be in the restaurant’s early days. As someone with Caribbean heritage and extremely familiar with many of the menu items, I would describe her dishes as traditional with a modern twist – familiar but new all at the same time, especially her popular ackee fried rice. My personal favourite was the chicken soup, which felt like a warm hug.

These three female founders are not only preserving their cultural heritage through their cuisine but are also carefully evolving traditional recipes. The common thread is their passion, love of sharing, and pride, making each restaurant a must-visit for anyone keen to explore the rich tapestry of global flavours in the capital.

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